Fabric / Yarns
We believe in the philosophy of 'Slow Fiber' materials and intend to continue to celebrate and promote their high quality and specialness – unique characteristics which often cannot be replicated by commercial machines (e.g. only ONE machine exists that can perform super high-twist yarns unique to Gunma silk texture). We have also been approached by these mills to help develop a more affordable and economically sustainable version (using conventional machines) that might approach a similar texture and quality, and we will offer them when available.
GUNMA SILK width: 114 cm (45 in)
Untreated silk broadcloths (leno, silk-linen blends, crepes) made of high twist yarns in which the sericin & fibroin proteins are left intact. This imparts certain qualities and behaviors to the fabric, allowing for interesting surface treatments. Gunma silks are the result of a collaborative idea conceived in 1997 by Yoshiko I Wada and Koshimitsu Mill of Kiryu, Gunma Prefecture. Gunma silks are exceptional canvases for shibori - exploiting the combinations of high twist yarns and proteins on cellulose fibers, playing with textures through gumming, de-gumming, permanent shaping, etc.
HAND LOOMED INDIAN ORGANZA width: 115 cm (45.3 in)
Loomed by hand, this Indian silk organza contains sericin and is more conducive to selective degumming than China-manufactured silk and retains more body post-process. Organza is a lightweight, transparent fabric in plain weave with a crisp hand that usually is made of very fine filament yarns. True organza is made of silk, its stiffness provided by natural gum (sericin) that remains on the filament.
JAPANESE FULLING WOOL width: black, grey: 180 cm (71 in) white: 167 cm (68 in)
Japanese wool designed by Hiroshi Murase. Made of a looser weave, this wool fulls exceptionally well. Note: "Charcoal Grey" and "Chocolate" are made of differently colored warp/weft yarns. DESIGN IDEAS: Fulling wool gauze can be used with a resist paste recipe to dramatic effect thanks to the wool's radical shrinking ability. Shibori patterning or stencil application of fulling resist paste can achieve three-dimensional texture, or a play of transparency against opacity in a lace-like treatment.
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